Archive by Author

Gianni of Passaggio Cravatte

19 Feb

I had the opportunity to speak with Gianni from Passaggio Cravatte recently, through the magic of Styleforum. Passaggio Cravatte creates lovely ties in Italy from vintage and antique silks. They primarily create made to order ties for men who want a truly unique accessory.

intro1

L&A – How long have you been in business, and how did you get started?

PC –  At age 13, I discovered neckties. I called various brands, and makers of ties . I did it in secret from my parents because I was small and I could not even wear a tie. When I called I would pretend to be a potential customer, asking these tie makers to send me the sample pieces of silk. I would fantasize about ordering those that I liked the most. But being a 13 year old, I never fulfilled my dreams. As I grew older, I did obtain the ties I thirsted after, but then over the years I saw that those styles were always the same.  They had more or less the usual colors and the usual designs. I was tired of never finding the tie I wanted, and started to become dissatisfied, though I retained a passion for ties which led me to start this business. I wanted to see true dandy style with special designs and unique colors. Then one day, four years ago, I went looking for vintage silks still printed by hand, and from there it all started. I have not stopped to look since!  Today we are the only ones who have these types of vintage silks, hand-printed many years ago. We are the only ones that do not have generic stock ready because everything is bespoke. We are the only dedicated vintage silk tie makers in Italy, and for that matter, the only tie maker as dedicated to the 7 folds in a single piece of cloth construction of ties. And this when all ties these days are made from 3 pieces of silk! Let’s say I’ve set out to create the Rolls of ties. And even further, we handle almost all of our orders bespoke by mail, creating these custom pieces for clients around the world.

DSC_3896

L&A - How do you select fabrics, and what standards do you use in selecting them?

PC - When choosing silks, we are very selfish. Fabrics will either appeal to me, or not at all. A vintage fabric must seduce me in order to be chosen. How? Through its colors, its patterns and its quality. For example, we have only vintage printed silks, still hand made. This is because the vintage hand-printed silk has a quality and a unique flavor. Every silk piece is usually only enough for up to 3 ties, and then is extinguished forever. This is why almost all of the pieces we make are so rare and special. We don’t do seasonal collections for this reason; there is no repetition of these unique creations of antique silks. Every month there is something new.

DSC_3274

L&A - Do you create designs for one type of man or several types?

PC - Every man has to be himself. With my fabrics I only have the task of fulfilling a man’s dreams. How? Giving access to the vintage silks, which allow the expression of his personality and inner self. And so my goal is not to sell, but to make a happy customer. And being a small family, each customer becomes like a son. And like any good parent, I always try not to miss anything with my children!

DSC_2101

L&A - What style of tie do you feel is the most timeless and least prone to going out of style?

PC - Two models never suffer from temporary fashion. The first is the old 7 folds in one piece of fabric, which began in the early 1900s. And the second model is the intramonabile 3 folds or classic tie. We always make the whole tie hemmed by hand like the old 7 folds in the 100 year old fashion.

DSC_3252

L&A - Whats your favorite cloth to work with?

PC - My favorite fabric to work with is grenadine, hand-made many years ago. Working that fabric is a unique sensation in every way. This is because it is almost completely transparent. It allows you to show the customer all our skill and all the quality of grenadine. When made with 7 folds the old way, the transparency is fantastic, given by the inner folds of grenadine itself.

DSC_2862 

L&A - If you had to select three ties for the rest of your life, which would you choose?

PC - If you had to choose only 3 ties for the rest of my life I have no doubt. I’d choose a debonair yellow highlighted paisley , all dark colors. Then a tie with a blue background for bright colors. And finally, I would bring with me a burgundy grenadine for more formal evenings!

DSC_3354

L&A - What inspires your work the most?

PC - To me this is more than a job, its a real passion. In fact, I never get tired, and that leads me to always try to improve myself constantly. It is my desire to make more and more of my customers happy, and make them friends.

home (800x566)

DSC_1928 DSC_3288 DSC_3805

DSC_2994

Thanks to Gianni for taking the time to share his work. See more of his work at Passaggio Cravatte.

Share

Begg & Co.

26 Jan

I’ve always been a sucker for Celtic products. Knowing this, and indulging it against her better judgement, my wife recently presented me with a lovely scarf from Begg and Co.

Based in Scotland, and established in 1866 (in Paisley), Begg has been making woolens for a long, long time.

Begg & Co. 41

7

I was struck by the simplicity and quality of their products. The best, and most obscure (yet respectable) part of their production process is the use of “specially grown hand-harvested Italian teasel plant heads” for the final texture finishing on their woolens. If that isn’t attention to detail, I don’t know what is.

Teasels1Web

It looks as if Begg & Co. has recently undergone some re-branding, and begun to market both its cloth, and consumer focused products to a more style conscious market. Definitely a brand to keep in mind as they explore a new and ever heritage-quality hungry demographic.

Weaving2 Warping1Nagas-017

shot1_752

Share

Now is the Winter

31 Dec

Winter, oh winter. You start after New Years, really. There is a glory and a sparkle to the snow and ice during the holidays. Come Jan 2nd, its nothing but bitter cold with no psychic tinsel chaser.

These wintertime distractions I hold to be self evident-

Winter Fridays are tie days- Also Sat-Thurs.

20131019-230044.jpg

Winter means obtaining as many sweaters as possible, at deeply discounted prices from cabalistically obscure companies with hard won coupon codes obtained through complex information exchanges on boring mens style forums.

678-cdgdark_army_green

Post sweater binge, I realized I needed storage for all of these woolly body stockings, specifically sweater storage- which then, in its own turn, set off a full closet reorganization which culminates in the invention/creation of a new closet accessory that is not yet to be revealed.

Now comes the drinking and reading-

Port and Aubrey-Maturin

71cWtcGr1lL

or The Rathbones and Giardini Arimei

TheRathbones-magnum

Let us also not forget the mulling of everything liquid-

aitaspices_1

Finally, there is this

nd.18362

Which is the olfactory equivalent of pounding a horn of mead on a moor cliff and drunkenly rolling through the gorse and heather, then plummeting into the sea. Its actually amazing what DS & Durga has done here. It smells so good.

Ok 2014, I’m ready.

Share

The Guernsey

17 Nov

 

fisherman with pipe

The Island of Guernsey is a British crown protectorate, as well as the source for a rather iconic style of simple black or blue knitwear known as the Guernsey sweater (or Gansey jumper, if your’e from the UK).

Historically, these sweaters were made in coastal western Europe for hundreds of years, the tradition spreading from the Southern Island of Guernsey Northward, settling as far as Denmark. Worn by North Sea fisherman and sailors of many nationalities for utilitarian warmth.

Guernsey fishermen

Unlike the the modern Irish Aran sweater, the Guernsey was tightly knit from coarse wool to make it hard wearing and water repellent. Most were traditionally designed symmetrically, so you could reverse it back to front to make it wear longer. They were often dyed with indigo, as it was readily available and hid grime and fish scales, whale oil, and merhorse blood quite well.

Some time in the 1940s, some enterprising Aran Islanders decided to make loosely knit white versions (black or brown wool used for the working man’s version) of the Gansey for export. These have been widely adopted by the general populace as Irish fisherman’s sweaters. Though nothing can be said against true Aran craftsmanship, they aren’t made for repetitive hard work in wet weather.

Curiously, the Guernsey became more complex as it moved north, incorporating family patterns and cabled embellishments. There is actually a stylistic difference between the Guernsey (more plain sweater from the titular island), and a Gansey (more embellished version from Brattain/Ireland). The hyper embellished grandchild of the Guernesy, the Aran, is the Irish wide-knit terminus of the spread, while the Scottish kept the cables small, but added as many as possible to every inch.

A couple of long lived brands that have been making such upper body coverings for many years include-

The Aran Islands own Inis Meain

inis1

 

inis2

S.N.S. Herning

SNSH1

snsh2

Makes you want to row a boat into a storm, no? Ok, that’s just me.

working

Share

squirrel time, again

6 Oct

 

il_fullxfull.191126831

This marks the 3rd recurrence of my presence here in Vermont during the Summer to Fall transition. The first time, I just didn’t know what I was looking at. The seasons shift with a special kind of wanton subtlety. The natural forces of this state want you to be shocked on that first cold morning, to be caught outside with a light jacket at night. Oh, but now I know better

Vermont really is most lovely in the fall. Summer starts to creep away, and things coalesce into this state of grace on the spectral level. Everything just suddenly feels right. This in and of itself, is yet another natural bait and switch; the second you’ve gotten used to the crisp days and chill nights, you find yourself under 3 feet of snow, in a dead wind-blasted wasteland. Not to put a bitter edge on it or anything.

Here is a series of  personal distractions in biographical order-

Music

New sunglasses- Persol PO 3046S

41476183

This video featuring Kalpesh Lathigra’s recent shoot of the RRL w2013 line for Port magazine

Getting the fall boots ready

Rider Cordovan and LL Bean Shearling Ducks- Also known as the Vermont Fall to Winter 2 step.

IMG_1169 IMG_1185

I think it’s hot cider time.

Share

1957 Lyman and the last of summer

1 Sep

My brother in law, an intrepid renaissance man of numerous talents, owns a boat. This boat (which I am trying my damnedest to buy from him) is a wooden masterpiece of lake skimming glory. A 1957 Lyman. In the below we are boating around lake Sunapee on the last day of August. A perfect way to close out an otherwise hot and lengthy summer.

20130901-112934.jpg

20130901-113207.jpg

20130901-113037.jpg

20130901-113252.jpg

Share

Summer Occupation

5 Aug

No, not a summer job. Summer is nothing but work. Winter is nothing but work and wishing for summer.

But seriously, Its actually been a nice few months. Lots of vintage boat times on lakes, and trips to the ocean.

In the mean time, I’ve been busy with side projects. By busy I mean doing the occasional thing between naps.

One of these things involves putting my feet into pink foam and sending it to Vienna.

shoe_fitting2

then

photo

More to come on this soon.

Share

Philosophy on tap

10 May

I want Cornel West to follow me around the house and comment on the things I’m doing.

“Petting a CAT? Petting a cat is nothing but stroking the animal you’ve forgotten to be, like slaying the Minotaur in the middle of your mental labyrinth is something you want to FORGET to do.”

“Shining your SHOES? Shining your shoes is the petty creation of a mirror you use to see the reflected space inside yourself that nothing will fill, nothing but a reflection of the emptiness ITSELF. ”

 

Share

The Parachuter

26 Apr

array(1) { ["source"]=> array(1) { [0]=> string(24) "source should be present" } }

I find myself travelling for work pretty regularly. Short trips in distance, just long enough to be annoying to pack for. I usually need 3 suits, and 5 days of general clothing-type items.

I often carry 2 bags, a Saddleback leather messenger bag for electronics and other small personal requirements, and a Filson weekender (note, an amazing bag, for trips up to 3 days). Between these two, I can usually balance what I need to travel/ stay. But its occasionally difficult to juggle them while I’m running through Reagan International after being delayed because the check-in line was filled with kids on a school trip.

While searching for an alternative bag solution I came across Aviation Luggage- a luggage maker based in Kildare, Ireland. I have a soft spot for things from Ireland, especially when they’re well made and generally useful. They make some really nicely designed travel bags, that simultaneously hold a decent amount  while being easy to strap up and run. The largest of this type of bag they call the Parachuter.

DE BRUIR Aviation Luggage Parachuter 7

 

From the founder of Aviation Luggage-

“The Parachuter Bag is the studio’s most innovative bag design. It is a contemporary backpack that features the best of traditional construction techniques with the finest quality leather. Each bag is designed and crafted by Garvan de Bruir at his design studio and workshop in Kildare,Ireland.

A single shoulder hide of leather wraps to form the main body of the bag, with additional hand-cut binding straps and skids for the base machine stitched in position.
As the bag begins to take shape, all of the stitching is done by hand with brad awl, needle and thread. The chunky stitching details combined with the robust bridle ensure the bag will last a lifetime.
Over time, your back will mould a comfortable concave shape into the body of the bag and the shoulder straps form to the top of your shoulders.  With consistent maturing of the leather, the bag will become more and more comfortable with age.
When using the bag, there is an additional binding strap that secures the shoulder straps in front of your chest. Adding to the comfort and ability to run without any movement from the bag.
A perfect companion for all leisure, business and travel requirements, the extra large size hits the maximum aircraft carry-on specifications in Europe. There are a selection of sizes to fit different peoples body sizes and intended uses.”

 

See additional images of the bag below.

 

Invalid Displayed Gallery

 

I think this would make for a really great travel alternative to my current (and perhaps too small) messenger bag. I especially like the way the straps connect across the chest to stabilize. Over all, a great looking bag from the motherland.
Share

Heinrich Dinkelacker and THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXPENSIVE AND VALUABLE

19 Apr

schuhsohlen_gross

I’m really into sturdy shoes. I think thin soles and fine leather on shoes have their place, but nothing beats a crazily built-up cordovan wingtip. These types of bullet-proof foot coverings can be referred to as gunboats. Gunboat as a phrase was popularized in the 1920s to describe both cars and feet that were over-sized or especially ungainly. This carried over to shoes in the 30′s in Dashiell Hammett style prose, and has stuck with aficionados of well built shoes since.

One shoe maker of this classic style that few people know of here in the US is the German based Budapest made organization Heinrich Dinkelacker. From their site-

“At Heinrich Dinkelacker the production of sewn-welted men’s shoes lies in the experienced hands of 40 specialized shoemakers who have learnt their trade from scratch. Every one of these experienced craftsmen has particular expertise in 2-3 working steps. Without an assembly line or constant pressure to increase efficiency, each employee creates one pair of premium shoes per day. And each pair undergoes 300 manufacturing steps – from the cutting down to the finish.”

Dinkelacker has been making classic “Budapester” styled brogue shoes for over 50 years in the classic 100 year-old tradition first made popular in Hungary’s capitol city.

Check out some of their 2013 collection below.

Luzern

london full brogue

 

London Captoe

 

Luzerncaptoe

The theme of quality is a dear one on this blog, as you may have noticed. There is a marked difference between expensive and valuable, as as a core principal at Dinkelacker, their work speaks for itself.

These shoes make me wish I was walking along the Danube. Then again, most things make me wish I was walking along the Danube.

Share